Sunday, September 28, 2014

How to move front pockets

I should have posted this weeks ago, but, well, life has kind of gotten in the way.  Here's a link to the original post so you can tie the two together.  So, this is how I move front pockets when tailoring a pair of pants.
As you are marking the cutting line up the leg put those marks on the pockets.
Transfer those lines to the fabric of the pant legs to the seam where the pocket joins the front.  Then get your handy-dandy seam ripper out and CAREFULLY remove the pocket unit from the pant leg.
 Then pin the pocket back in to match up on the new cutting line.  Now you can cut all the excess fabric off the front pant leg using the pocket edge as your cutting edge.  You will be able to see where any notches need cut or stay-stitching needs done.
On this pair of pants the pockets were twisted.  Probably because the fabric was off grain and after they were washed and all the sizing was removed the fabric returned to its natural lay.  Another reason to always prewash your fabric.  I did have to take the pockets apart, re-cut and re-build them so they would lie flat in the garment.  Not something you normally have to do.
Lay the right side of the pocket facing against the right side of the front, pin and sew.  I usually set the pocket on the inside of the front where it goes and then flip it to the front to make sure I putting the right pocket on the right side of the pants.  Cause, well, I've been wrong before.
Clip any corners, flip, iron, top stitch, and press everything flat.  Pin the pocket edges to the side of the pants and to the waist of the pants, then baste the pocket edges where they meet the sides and waist of the front.  Bar-tack (usually a narrow, short [quarter to half inch] zig-zag) at the bottom of the pocket opening and at the top of the pocket opening.

As you can see the side of the pants is a smooth line, but at the waist I have a little of the pocket peaking above the waistline.  This had to do with the way Hubby's pants needed to be tailored.  (Interesting note:  less than 12% of the people in any given size are actually those measurements.)  I just trim that little bit off.  To me having the side of the pocket lying right is more important than that little bit at the top of the pocket that needs trimmed off.
Now you just finish sewing the pants back together!

 I hope everybody is having a good day!

Judy

5 comments:

tracie c. said...

nice tute judy! i've never felt comfortable with tailoring. pants are totally intimidating to me!
thinking about you! big hug to you dear! x+o

Judy said...

LOL Very little intimidates me. It's all my parent's fault! They told me if I wanted to do it, I could, if I wanted too, bad enough. That's probably why me, Arthur, Ben and Gay have a high old time some days.

Thanks for commenting and the hug!

tracie c. said...

:)

Timelesslady said...

I've enjoyed taking a look at your quilts and other ventures. I don't quilt, but it's fun to see the beautiful pieces people create with fabric. Blessings.

Judy said...

If you sew at all, you should try it. It is fun to play with color and geometric shapes. And since I also have a need for function, you get to make something that will warm some one, too.

Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.